The charming Li River, one of the major attractions of the Guilin-Yangshuo region, has been described as a green silk ribbon with hills like jade hairpins and is ideal for exploration on a boat. The meandering 65km cruise lasts 5 hours and takes you past a panorama of bamboo groves, sleepy villages, karst peaks and fisherman on rickety bamboo rafts fishing with cormorant birds. Most cruises go down river to Yangshuo and then bus back to Guilin, though some cruises begin from Yangshuo and go upriver to Guilin. The best time to visit Yangshuo is spring and autumn, the summer can be overwhelmingly hot and muggy while the winter has low water levels.

A river cruise, which includes lunch, can be expensive. If you're willing to forgo an English-speaking tour guide, going with a Chinese group is cheaper with around RMB220. A cheaper, though just as stunning way of experiencing the serenity of Yangshuo is taking a bus to Yangshuo and then exploring the surrounding area by bike. Due to seasonal fluctuations in the river's water level, all cruises now begin at Millstone Hill, just outside of Guilin.

Along the cruise, you'll pass by whimsically named formations given by tourists of old, though a strong imagination may be needed to fully visualize their namesake. South of Millstone Hill and the gray-bricked riverside village of Daxu is Bat Peak with cliffs resembling bats. Unlike the west, bats are symbols of good fortune inChinaas homonyms. Further along is Dragons Play in the Water, the rocky outcroppings diving into the water, inspired by a legend that dragons were sent here by the jade Emperor to retrieve the fragrant flowers that grow in abundance during spring. The riverbank should make any gardener green with envy as the plant life is lush and varied with thick bamboo forests and rice paddies inhabited by water buffaloes.

Looking Out for Husband Rock resembles a woman with a young child on her back gazing longingly down the river for the return of her husband. Following is Caoping Village and on the eastern bank is Crown Cave, which has a deep underground river.

Continuing on is the village of Yangdi, the small villages along the river are typical of the architecture found in this region. Nest is the village of Daxu, which features gray brick buildings covered with gray tiles and upturned eaves.

Before reaching the village of Xingping, you'll meet the Boy Worshipping Guanyin, which resembles a toddler kneeling in prater, giving his respects to the Buddhist goddess of mercy. After that is the Nine Horses Painting Hill, a jagged outcropping with the imprint of a wild herd of horses, though these horses can be elusive, most people can only see seven.

As you reach the area surrounding Xingping, some of the most striking scenery along the river comes into view. If you decide to stay in Yangshuo, you can readily return to the area for a second close-up visit. Local travel agents can arrange personalized tours that include visits to the various picturesque villages in the area.